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Janka Hardness Chart

55+ species you can search, sort, and filter — with Red Oak flagged as the benchmark and hardness bars so the differences actually register.

Verified against independent hand calculation · sources cited below

Lignum Vitaeabout the hardest wood in the trade4,500
Ipe3,510
Cumaru3,330
Gaboon Ebony3,080
Cocobolo2,960
Bloodwood2,900
Olivewood2,700
Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry)2,690
Osage Orange2,620
Purpleheart2,520
East Indian Rosewood2,440
Bubinga2,410
Bocote2,010
Wenge1,930
Zebrawood1,830
Shagbark Hickory / Pecan1,820
Yellowheart1,790
Padauk1,725
Black Locust1,700
Honey Locust1,580
Canarywood1,520
Hard Maple (Sugar)the classic workbench and cutting-board top1,450
Sapele1,410
Bamboo (natural, flooring)1,380
White Oak1,360
White Ash1,320
American Beech1,300
Northern Red Oakthe traditional flooring benchmark1,290
Yellow Birch1,260
Iroko1,260
African Mahogany (Khaya)1,070
Teak1,070
Black Walnut1,010
Black Cherry950
Soft Maple (Red)950
Paper Birch910
Aromatic Red Cedar900
American Elm830
Honduran Mahogany800
American Sycamore770
Southern Yellow Pine (Loblolly)690
Douglas Fir660
Sassafras630
Spanish Cedar600
Red Alder590
Yellow Poplar540
Bald Cypress510
Western Hemlock500
Butternut490
American Basswood410
Eastern White Pine380
Quaking Aspen350
Western Red Cedar350
Paulownia300
Balsa70

Typical published side-hardness values at ~12% moisture content (55 of 55 species shown). Individual boards vary meaningfully — use these to compare species, not to certify a plank.

How to read this chart

Janka numbers are comparison figures, measured on clear, defect-free samples at about 12% moisture content. Real boards — with grain swirl, density variation, and different moisture — will vary around the published value. That’s fine: the chart’s job is ranking (is Hickory meaningfully harder than Oak? yes, ~40%), not certifying an individual plank.

Landmarks worth memorizing

  • 350–500: soft, fast-denting — Cedar, Pine, Basswood. Carving and paint-grade country.
  • 950–1,450: the furniture-and-flooring heartland — Cherry, Walnut, Oak, Ash, Hard Maple.
  • 1,700–2,700: serious wear resistance — Hickory, Padauk, Purpleheart, Jatoba. Tool handles and high-traffic floors.
  • 3,000+: deck-grade exotics — Ipe, Cumaru — hard on blades, gorgeous underfoot, pre-drill everything.

Frequently asked questions

What does the Janka rating actually measure?

The force needed to press a 0.444″ steel ball halfway into the wood — reported in pounds-force (lbf) in North America. It’s a dent-resistance test: Red Oak at 1,290 lbf is the traditional benchmark everything else gets compared to.

Is a harder wood always the better choice?

No. Hardness predicts dent resistance — floors, workbench tops, cutting boards — but harder woods are also harder on your edges, more prone to blotchy finishing, and often heavier and pricier. Black Walnut at ~1,010 lbf makes superb furniture precisely because workability beats armor for most projects.

Are all softwoods softer than all hardwoods?

No — the terms describe botany (conifers vs broadleaf trees), not hardness. Southern Yellow Pine (~690 lbf) out-dents Basswood (410) and Aspen (350), both technically hardwoods; Balsa, one of the softest woods on Earth, is a hardwood too.

What hardness do I need for a floor or a workbench?

Common practice: ≥1,000 lbf for residential flooring (Red Oak’s 1,290 is the classic), more for dogs and commercial traffic. Workbench tops favor Hard Maple (~1,450). Cutting boards want the 900–1,500 window — hard enough to last, soft enough to spare your knives.

Sources & further reading